May 14th

Starting miles    50790
Time.                  12:00
Weather.              Warm and sunny
Temperature.        25C

We packed Hermione again, cleaned the house, said our au revoirs and set off for Nimes where our previous wanderings ended. Today is a jour ferie so we were  hopeful of being able to park and explore  the Roman remains.

We are destined not to see Nimes. We made for a Park an ride. We managed the first part easily enough but on a public holiday no ride. We briefly entered central Nimes again but it is no place for a camping car. No chance of stopping so we gave up again and headed for Arles where we are installed in Camping l'arlesienne. The other campers that we can see are French, German, Austrian, Dutch and Swiss.
We go the bikes out and made a quick tour of Arles (2 kms away) so that we will know where to go tomorrow.

Gazole.    88.49euros
                 73.13 litres

Campsite.  17.1 euros

Miles so far.   1469

Avignon to Raissac

Thursday April 30th

• starting miles           50640
• temperature              17.5
• weather                     warm, sunny
• time                           11.15

We got up early. Being a diet day we didn't dilly dally with breakfast. We got the bikes out and by 8.30 we had cycled across the new Pont d'Avignon to explore in the warm morning sunshine.

 In fact it didn't take us too long to discover that we had seen most of what we wanted to the night before.

The roads were narrow and busy with traffic. The signs said that bikes were allowed to go the wrong way up one way streets but the car drivers were far from convinced. 

In the end after coffee for an amazing €1 each  we cycled in the sunshine along the banks of the river Rhone and got the boat back to the site.

The plan was to visit Nimes to complete our Roman education.

 We would meander along the route nationale and see what we could see.

 I spied a sign for the "pont du gard" which I had seen iconic pictures of. 

So we made a detour expecting to find a lay by in which we could park and take pictures of the bridge.

Instead they had turned it into a theme park. The car park was immense. The buses were in the dozens as were the camping cars. 

We duly paid our €18 for our vehicle and headed off on foot. What an international gathering.The Chinese have replaced the Japanese as the ubiquitous tourist but there were Spaniards and Italians by the horde and German school parties. 

The Pont du Gard is seriously impressive. It was built by the Romans as an aqueduct during the first century. it is the most iconic part of a 50 kms long aqueduct which brought water to the city of nimes over the gardon river which flows below. The pont part was added in the seventeen century but without the plaque with its explanation you would never have known so seamlessly was it stitched on. 

We arrived at Nimes at around 2.30 and by 3.30 and several faux pas we still hadn't found somewhere to park. Nimes has a serious parking problem. All of the car parks were underground with barriers at a height which made them out of bounds for Hermione.

In the end discretion was the better part of valour and since we hadn't succeeded at first we gave up and headed for Raissac. It is good to be home. Nimes can wait to be  explored another time.

Chateauneuf du Pape to Avignon

Wednesday April 29th

• starting miles           50627
• temperature              16
• weather                     warm, wind has dropped
• time                           11.15

The weather is much better so we are in no hurry to leave. Hermione is fed and watered as are her occupants when we set off the 2km to Chateauneuf du Pape. We had a recommendation from the camp site owner to visit Domaine Durieu. 

 Unfortunately Chateauneuf du Pape was built for horses and carts not camping cars. We parked well outside the village and cycled back to the Domaine Durieu for a degustation which inevitably led to purchasing. Should we risk trying to take the wine to the van or the van to the wine? In the end we chose the latter and we were able to park in the centre of town all day for €2.

Chateauneuf du Pape is a very attractive village but very touristy . Every other outlet offers degustation and sales of Chateauneuf du Pape from veilles vines at exhorbitant prices. However we did not come to Chateauneuf du Pape to go home with 6 bottles of Cotes du Rhone so we dully purchased 3 bottles of a 2011 medal winning Chateauneuf du Pape.

 At the top of the hill in Chateauneuf du Papes is indeed a ruined chateau  to which we felt obliged to climb. On the way we passed a restaurant Le Vergers de Pape perched on the top of the hill with panoramic views over the Rhone and the surrounding countryside.

 It seemed a little pricey but the location and the view. 

It was an excellent lunch which in the end was good value for money. The wine on the other hand.......  a 100ml glass for €5! 

After a further stroll around town we meandered our way further south to Avignon where we found a fantastic site right by the Pont d'Avignon of the famous song. 

The four star Pont d'Avignon site is on an island in the middle of the Rhone. It is a huge site with a swimming pool, restaurant and supermarket on site. Only a part of it was open at the moment but it is the busiest site so far.

We had a fabulous view across the Rhone to the Palais des Papes. There was a free navette (a boat across the river) which ran every 15minutes. You could take bikes on board.

So once we were settled in (5 minutes now that we are becoming experienced) we took the navette across to the other side and climbed several flights of stairs to the fabulous gardens of the Pope's Palace. 

The area around the Palace is pedestrianized and very attractive as is the Pont d'Avignon. However over the years it has lost many of its arches and now has only four of its original 22 arches. "on y danse toute en ronde" so as to not fall into the Rhone.

The Conservatoire du danse is in Avignon. We arrived on Dance Day where street performances of all kinds of dance were being given. 

We stood mesmerised by the quality of the spectacle and the incongruity of the fairground sounds which were emanating from the merry-go-round which was next door.

We had to hurry to catch the last boat across the Rhone at 6.22 and resolved to return in the morning for more exploring.












Site cost :                              €16

Miles travelled:                        53

Tournon sur Rhone to Chateauneuf du Pape

Tuesday April 28th

• starting miles           50539
• temperature              11
• weather                     cold, cloudy but dry (at last)
• time                           10.25

Before we were up the cars and buses began to arrive. We are quite a long way from and large town or city. As we learned later the train left at 10:00

for a whole day trip in the Ardeche.The average age of the passengers made us feel like spring chickens.We were offered a place on the trip but declined. If it had been a half day or less perhaps we would have gone. 

We had scarcely started when we hit trouble - literally. Negotiating some narrow roadworks  Hermione clashed wing mirrors with (ironically) a Mercedes Sprinter which duly lived up to its name and left the scene. no real harm done but all feelings of invincibility have departed.

We followed the Rhone south. It always surprises me just how built up and industrial is the Rhone valley. We reached Montelimar at mid day but had great difficulty finding a combination of parking place and nougat shop. Eventually we succeeded on the outskirts just as we had given up hope of ever finding it. 

After lunch in a wooded aire we were able to park in the middle of Orange to visit the ancient Roman Theatre built in the 1st century BC and the impressive Arc de Triomphe of the same vintage.

Theatre Visit.

We stopped at a very attractive site by the Rhone l'Art de Vivre is 2kms from the centre of Chateauneuf du pape which we planned to visit next day.









Site cost :                              €16

Miles travelled:                        53

Monbard to Tournon sur Rhone

Monday April 27th

• starting miles           50239
• temperature              12
• weather                     pouring rain
• time                           10.15

Despite our determination to meander and enjoy the slow route we have decided to try to outrun the rain and find the sun. Nowhere looks good in the rain. 

Before we left the site a momentous milestone was reached - Pauline drove Hermione Hymer for the very first time.!  The distance? About 15m. But it is a start.

D980 then A6 towards Lyon. Let's get some kilometres under our belt. It is a driving and a diet day.

Found GPL gaz on the motorway and decided to try our first fill. It is easy once you have attached the correct adaptor. 13.39litres = €11.64

Fueled at Auchan in Macon 60 litres = €72.07
We passed through Belleville not an aptly named town on the way into Villeneuve sur Saone. We crossed through the centre of Lyon at around 4 pm then on the N7 to Vienne. Still too wet to take photos. We crossed the Rhone at Tournon sur Rhone and whilst looking for our planned campsite happened upon a huge car park in beautiful surroundings. It was the car park for a restored steam train which runs trips through the Ardeche.

There were separate spaces for cars buses and camping cars. there were three vans parked in readiness for  a train trip the next morning so we slotted in alongside them for the night. It was still raining.

Site cost :                              €000

Miles travelled:                        300

Mery sur Seine to Montbard

Sunday April 26th

• starting miles           50217
• temperature              14.5
• weather                     sunny
• time                           9.45 

Our picture perfect wild camping spot was invaded at 9.00 am exactly by about 40 pompiers and their fire engines and equipment.

It appeared to be some sort of training exercise. After feeding our left over bread to the ducks we took the hint and left for Troyes which is about 20kms away. 

Since it was Sunday we were able to find a parking spot relatively near to the centre and easy walking distance to the cathedral where there was a special mass being said for the victims of genocide in Armenia. The cathedral, in common with many other public buildings was guarded by four soldiers.

We chatted to a reporter from Paris who was making a documentary film about security for Channel 3. France is on Red alert at the moment. 

Central Troyes is fabulous. Most of the houses are half-timbered Elizabethan looking edifices which are remarkably well preserved/restored interspersed with huge stone built gilded public buildings. Impressive. Clearly a prosperous town. There is a large pedestrian area filled with restaurants. A difficult choice was made for us when we allowed ourselves to be shepherded inside a busy restaurant for Sunday lunch. 

After many more photos we headed for Buchere to see the monument to the massacre of 67 villagers by the Nazis on August 24th 1944. 

We continued to meander south stopping at a lovely municipal site at Montbard. There are only four or five units three of which are British. Montbard sits at the bottom of a valley. We arrived in the rain and it was still raining in the morning when we left. 

It is time to outrun the rain and head south.

Site cost :                              €14

Miles travelled:                        153

Amiens to Mery sur Seine

Saturday April 25th

• starting miles           50063
• temperature              14
• weather                     wet/cloudy
• time                           11.15

We left Amiens in the rain and headed west towards Roye (pronounced like the king) Maybe it was the rain but it was not as impressive as i remember it. Maybe this is not such a good idea?

 However Noyon Cathedral and its associated surrounding buildings was impressive indeed. Despite the rain it was 27C inside the van as we enjoyed coffee and a sandwich whilst watching the world go by.

PM to Soissons via Cuts, Blerancourt and the steep and winding D6. Stopped at Aldi to stock up - everything is closed in rural France on a Sunday. Brief exploratory forays in each town but nowhere looks good in the rain. Even picture perfect Sezanne was lost in the drizzle.

fuel:   67l      €76

The countryside changes from the rolling hills of the coastline to the vast flatness of the Pas de Calais to the gently rolling slopes of Champagne. the soil is light coloured and chalky. 

Just as we were thinking of finding a campsite near Troyes we were passing through the idyllic little village of Mery sur Seine and there it was the perfect wild camping spot by the river Seine. 

We weren't the only ones who thought so and we shared our spot with three other camping cars and several local fishermen. 

Pauline noted that it was the best find to date - picturesque and with a fabulous evening sky. It is only 1 or 2 degrees too cool to sit outside in comfort. 

There was a magnificent thunder and lightning storm overnight but we were cosily tucked up in Hermione Hymer.

Site cost :                              €000

Miles travelled:                        153

Wacquinghen to Amiens

Friday April 24th

• starting miles           49950
• temperature              13
• weather                     sunny
• time                           9.15

This feels like the start proper of our European adventure. The plan is to loosely follow the course of Brian's 2010 bike ride stopping off to visit properly some interesting places. We began as we mean to continue - slowly. We passed Boulogne and headed for le Touquet

also known as Paris - plage. We were reminded of Elie (Edinburgh on sea) There were some fabulous houses but most were empty.

We meandered our way to Amiens arriving at the 4star Parc des Cygnes at about 3pm. The decision to join ASCI and get a card which doubles as ID is proving to be a wise one. Check in is so easy. They were very relaxed about payment - said to pay as we were leaving and did we want to order bread or croissants for the morning. We were offered our choice of pitches since it is still early season. We were straight onto our bikes for the 5km ride along a canal towpath into Amiens - centre. 

Amiens Cathedral is strikingly impressive. It is by far the biggest Cathedral we have ever seen ( and we have been in many cathedrals) It is twice the size of Notre Dame in Paris.

It was well worth the cycle to see it. The centre of Amiens is cycle friendly. Much of it is pedestrians and bikes only which enabled us to explore central Amiens at our convenience. 

Unfortunately Brian's sense of direction isn't quite as good as he thinks it is. there are two canals in central Amiens and we followed the wrong one for a bit. Pauline was not a happy camper and insisted on retracing our steps back to the beginning. However after nibbles, wine and spaghetti bolognese all was well with the world.

A stroll around the camp site revealed mostly motor homes ( camping cars here) parked on individually screened pitches with lots of shrubs and hedges and greenery. The last part should have been a clue. It rained overnight and when Brian went to pay in the morning and fetch the bread the receptionist said that it was to rain for two days.

Instant decision - Let's head south.

Site cost :                              €16

Miles travelled:                        153

Oxford to Wacquinghen

Thursday April 23rd

• starting miles           49797
• temperature              9
• weather                     sunny
• time                           10.15

Leisurely coffee (diet day )and Hermione’s needs met (water in waste out) we set off for the Channel tunnel at 10.15.Although we had booked to cross on the 16.50 crossing we arrived early and were allowed on the 15.20.

The whole "le shuttle" experience is slick and professional and incredibly quick

. We had scarcely opened the ACSI camping book to choose a site near Boulogne when we had arrived in France.

Half an hour later and we are on a lovely  site – L’escales which is in the village of Wacquinghen.

Site cost :                              €16

Miles travelled:                        153

Oxford

Wednesday April 22nd

• starting miles           49797
• temperature              9
• weather                     sunny
• time                           10.15

We awoke in Oxford to a fine sunny morning. Brian chatted to a fellow Hymer owner who offered tips on everything Hymer. I feel that we have joined a club.


 We took the bus into the centre of Oxford from the Redbridge Park and ride which was just across the road from the Oxford Camping and Caravanning Club Site. Pauline remarked that the standard of facilities hadn’t changed since our camping days 30 years ago.

On arrival in the centre we joined a walking tour which had just begun.There were eight of us led by a young lady of Indian extraction. It was intriguing in that unlike many of the other tours it was "free." You were encouraged to pay what you thought it was worth at the end.

It was an interesting tour of the colleges and libraries of this institution which has been educating leading world figures for over 800 years.




In Balliol college alone we found pictures of Oscar Wilde, Steven Hawking, JR Tolkien, Tony Blair, David Cameron, Ted Heath and Roy Jenkins. We were allowed into the dining room used by the current students. We couldn’t help thinking that it was left over from the set of a Harry Potter film.

Pauline filled several camera cards with pictures of the magnificent architecture and the hidden gardens many of which were only for the dons. But since it was a beautiful spring morning we saw many students sat cross legged on the grass engaged in deep and meaningful conversations (or posing for the tourists.)

We enjoyed a tasty lunch at the Head of the Water Pub where Morse downed many a pint whilst looking out at the punts on the Thames all so civilized and pleasant.

We are starting to learn about filling the water tank and emptying the waste and generally rubbing along together in a relatively small space.

After Pauline had filled another camera card it was x300 back to the campsite via a handy but pricey Tesco Express. £4.50 return for two isn’t dear but we did resent not being able to use our bus passes.

Harrogate to Oxford

Tuesday April 21st

• starting miles           49571
• temperature              7
• weather                     sunny
• time                           8.00

The Moaning cow provided excellent free parking for the night although the traffic noise continued well into the wee small hours.

 Next morning Brian  decided to try out the on board facilities. If you picture trying to shave and shower in half  a phone box then you just about have it. Pauline decided to give it a miss and just after 8 we set off for Harrogate for breakfast. 

We hadn’t appreciated just how big and bustling Harrogate would be. Breakfast was in M&S car park and we gave up on Harrogate and headed for Chatsworth via the leafier parts of Leeds and Sheffield. Pauline was not too happy to be introduced to the Sat nav app on Brian’s phone but it proved its worth more than once.

We crested a hill at about noon and laid out in front of us was the fabulous Chatsworth estate – all 150 hectares. Wow! 

The house itself is absolutely fabulous from a distance and even better when you get closer. After a lunch of bacon rolls for sustenance we accepted our £2 discount as senior citizens and set off on a tour of the inside of the house. 

Each room is more lavish than the one before. Ornate doesn’t begin to convey the splendour and richness of the building, decoration and furnishings. It seemed that every piece of stone was marble and intricately carved. Every piece of wood was exotic and intricately carved. Every surface that could be gilded was gilded. By the third or fourth room we were bamboozled by the splendour of it all and in awe of the incredible sums of money that had been lavished on the house and its contents since it was built in 1559.

The Dukes of Cavendish and Duchesses of Devonshire had each attempted to add something to what was already a fabulous building. Being filthy rich certainly helped but they seemed to have a genuine feeling for improvement of the estate.

The Emperor fountain in the grounds was built by the fourth duke after he had visited Czar Nicholas 4^th in Russia. On hearing of a possible reciprocal visit he had the existing fountain moved and made bigger so that it would be bigger than that of his visitor ( some 298ft ) It is certainly an impressive water feature which can be seen from miles around.

We took a guided tour of the gardens which were laid out by Capability Brown and extended by Joseph Paxton. What was once swampy ground is now full of delightful corners. Several glass houses and a copy of the Botanic garden at Edinburgh gives onto a maze of paths containing water features ponds, sensory garden, rock gardens, a maze, a serpentine hedge and acres and acres of grass meadow. 

The current duke and duchess, Peregrine and Amanda have added many  modern sculptures   as features throughout the estate. The have made it their lives’ work to enable the estate to recover from the crippling  80% death duties which were leveled on the death of the previous Duke  in 1955.

Altogether we had a wonderful visit. We would rate it as: very  highly recommended.

 All too soon it was time to head for Oxford. “We’ll just head down the M1 and across. How hard can it be. The site is just off the A34 ring road by the park and ride. I  remember it from my bike ride”

Unfortunately there are five park and ride sites on the outskirts of Oxford and we visited four of them before we finally  reached territory which was familiar to Brian. 

Before that he discovered that he can reverse 200m up a narrow one way street which was a dead end.

However we are now safely ensconced in the Oxford Camping and caravanning club site beside the Redbridge Park and Ride and looking forward to exploring Oxford tomorrow. The sun has shone all day let’s hope for the same again.

Miles travelled:                  226

Fuel:                                  68 litres                                £87.99

Site cost:                            £49.50 (2 nights)

Freuchie to Harrogate

Monday April 20^th

• starting miles           49325
• temperature              7.5
• weather                     cloudy

Having had our passports delivered by Rachel on her way to work we were able to take the obligatory selfies in front of the house before we  set out on the first leg of our European adventure.

 In the spirit of minimal planning we stopped at IKEA to buy new curtains for our house in France.

The free coffee helped to keep stress levels to a minimum but being IKEA we ended up buying more than we had intended.

Next stop a layby outside Coldstream  for another free drink. Carrying your house around isn’t all bad.

Next stop was Bamburgh Castle via Wooler.

We are not sure if we are pleased or miffed that we are not senior citizens so we don’t qualify for a discount. 

Bamburgh castle itself was fabulous. 

Although it dates from Norman times the largely ruined castle was restored in late victorian times by Lord Armstrong. Sometimes returning to a place you visited decades ago can be disappointing but Bamburgh in Spring sunshine surpassed our hazy memories. Fantastic views out to the Farne islands  scene of Grace Darling’s exploits.

After a three hour trip down the A1 we are parked as I write in the car park of The Moaning Cow a pub stopover for motorhomes which is closed for refurbishment so we are parked illicitly which only  adds to the sense of adventure.

Harrogate Chatsworth and overnight in Oxford is the rough plan for tomorrow.

Miles travelled:  250